If you’re confused by Singapore food, that’s OK. There’s a bit to get your head around. It helps to know that Chinese, Malay and Indians are the largest ethnic groups and the food directly reflects this. 

There’s a massive variety of dishes across the spectrum, absolutely everywhere. But there are enclaves with specific types too. Chinatown for Chinese, remembering that Chinese food in Singapore is mainly milder Cantonese, Hokkien or Teochew in style. Wherever you are, look for ‘zi char’ restaurants, specialising in homey-style Chinese dishes, some of them unique to Singapore. A few of our faves are Sticky Coffee Pork Ribs, Cereal Prawns and Fried Yam Ring. 

Indian fare is concentrated in Little India, naturally. Expect Southern-style dishes like banana leaf rice, mutton biryani and thalis, with other regions (Bengal, Mumbai, Punjab, for starters), represented too – tandoor chicken, anyone? Then, there’s Kampong Glam, dominated by the graceful Sultan Mosque. It’s a vibrant hub for punchy Malay eats, which means dishes like nasi lemak, murtabak, mee rebus and satay. You don’t have to come here to eat these, of course, but Kampong Glam’s a cool little area that’s well worth some time.

With over 118 amazing food centres, where to start? Hawker centres, each with dozens and dozens of individual stalls, are one of the city’s big draws, and are truly one of the best places to eat in Singapore. The eating is epic, with a cost-to-quality ratio that’s off the charts. They’re always a buzz.

If you’re not sure which to target, just remember there’s no such thing as crappy food in a food-crazed city so go with wherever you land. Some centres have hawker stalls with awesome pedigrees; you might see ones boasting a Michelin Bib Gourmand Award, a high accolade. Eat from those! In general, we’re fans of Amoy Food Centre (we dream of J2’s crispy curry puffs!), Old Airport Road Food Centre (home to some really famous vendors) and Newton Food Centre, for those Crazy Rich Asian vibes (the movie’s hawker food scene was shot here). 

Let queues be your cue – stalls with the longest ones will be excellent. Make like the locals and claim your seat first by placing a pack of tissues on the table, then go get your food. Be prepared to share a table (part of the deal) and DON’T FEED THE BIRDS! The city’s excellent MTR (Mass Rapid Transit) train system will be your friend, whizzing you efficiently from one centre to another. Trains are cheap, safe and simple to self-navigate.

You’d be nuts not to crack into crab if you’re looking for some of the best places to eat in Singapore. Chilli crab is a national obsession, usually made with imported live mud crabs. Everyone cooks theirs differently so don’t expect a definitive version; some are sweeter, others spicier. The copious, gloopy, shirt-staining red sauce is a constant, though. You need a bib, you need claw crackers and you need to get right in with your hands to eat. There will be mess. It won’t be pretty. 

Chilli not your thing? There are other crab dishes, like black pepper. It’s a drier dish, with a butter, soy sauce, curry leaves, dried shrimp, garlic and pepper mix coating the crab. Delish. There’s also salted egg crab, smothered in a heart-stopping combo of evaporated milk, butter and mashed salted egg yolk, is a cult-popular Singaporean ingredient. Your cardiologist will not approve. 

Where to eat crab? We like the claypot version at Spring Court  plus the one at Jumbo Seafood, where they throw chopped peanuts into the sauce. Majestic Bay Restaurant does great chilli crab plus a kopi (coffee) one too and it’s handily right by Gardens by the Bay.

Nowhere’s exactly off the beaten path in Singapore. But if you want to kick around an iconic old residential ‘hood with great local eats and absent the tourist hustle, Tiong Bahru’s your gig. Its mix of Art Deco apartment blocks, lush little green spaces, Euro-style artisan bakeries and indie boutiques is as idyllic as Singapore gets. Plus the cafes here serve some of the island’s best espresso. Good to hit up for breakfast. 

When we fancy cheese, wine, Bayonne ham or text-book croissants, we bee-line to Merci Marcel.Caffe Pralet is our go-to for mile-high sourdough sandwiches and cronuts, while Chengs @27 makes a killer Pandan Chiffon Cake. Keeping it local, House of Peranakan is where we dive into the unique Nonya flavours (a unique Chinese and Malay fusion cuisine). Then, if we need (another) food centre fix, the excellent Tiong Bahru Food Centre is a bit calmer than most.

Bummed by the booze prices? We feel you. Alcohol attracts a so-called ‘sin’ tax, keeping quenching beverages priced sky high. And dammit if Singapore’s bar scene isn’t pretty enticing, with microbreweries, whisky lounges and a cocktail culture burgeoning. But happy days – there’s always Happy Hour! 

Some of our fave places for discount drinks? Jigger & Pony, for stunning, bespoke cocktails, Alter Ego, with views of Marina Bay as a sweet bonus, and Chupitos Bar, famed for their cray-cray shots (including Milo and Paddle Pop-flavoured ones). But if you’re in to-hell-with-the-cost mode and don’t care about discount deals, head to Atlas for serious swank and a choice of 1,300 gins. Or Bitters & Love, where signature drinks are themed around local flavours like kaya toast and teh tarik. Fun! Oh, and we always cram in a night at Potato Head's rooftop bar; think tinkly lights, Chinatown views, good vibes and tiki-themed drinks.

Few cities do luxe indulgence like Singapore. A beacon for top notch chefs, the Michelin stars literally glitter and shine and you can find almost any cuisine you want. Fancy Nordic fusion? Zén, ranked among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, is for you. Craving modern French in ridiculously elegant surrounds? Try Odette; the food is spectacular. Want to sample fare from Asia’s leading female chef? Get to smart-casual Lolla and try Johanne Siy’s legendary sea urchin pudding. Hankering for Italian fine dining? Make the gastronomic pilgrimage to Art d’Daniele Sperindio at the lovely National Gallery of Singapore, with amazing views over the city. The menu takes inspo from Liguria and we still dream about the 32 egg yolk taglierini with Santa Margherita prawns and sancho pepper. 

Smack bang on buzzing Orchard Road, Alma by Juan Amador is where Spanish and German influences meet and if this sounds a bit off-kilter, wait until you taste the arctic char in pickled radish, served with sushi vinegar jelly, passionfruit gel and caviar – sigh. We also adore Hamamoto, serving sushi and kaiseki in a sleek, peaceful, contemporary space that only seats 12. It’s so special – anything chef Kazuhiro Hamamoto serves is perfection. He sources produce from Tokyo and Fukuoka but only at its absolute seasonal peak, making dining here utterly transcendental. For refined Cantonese, we can’t go past Jade at the iconic Fullerton Hotel. The interior is dreamy (we covet the specially commissioned wallpaper!) and Chef Leong, who’s also a skilled ceramist and painter, crafts each plate into an absolute work of art.